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Thanks for the help guys. I'll get to work on it soon.
My original cast iron head was leaking from the radiator hose and when I removed the hose I discovered a large chunk of metal had broken away under the hose clamp. The aluminum head was only fitted as I had it on the shelf so I had it skimmed and thought it was worth a try.
I may try and braze up the cast iron head and refit, after fixing the offending stud.
I was a ATDC member for several years but being in Sydney, Australia the benefits of membership seemed to be out weighed by the additional postal cost to get the magazine airmailed over. I am fairly involved with my Austins and am currently president if the Austin Motor Club of New South Wales. I will be visiting the UK in June and may get enthused and rejoin the ATDC.
Just a thought..
If you can get away with removing the one nut without disturbing the head, do you have enough thread on show to try and remove the stud using two nuts locked together?
If the water is drained, the stub could be removed and a new one fitted with thread sealant, then nut and washer back on, refill the water and job done...
I know, not ideal loosening the stud from the top & the stud breaking would be a nightmare but the solution was to remove the head anyway so there would be nothing lost in trying..
Peters reply is the correct fix.
But as a temporary fix. remove the stud nut and washer and wrap some plumbers thread tape around the stud and replace the washer and nut. This should stop the water leakage until you have time to do a proper repair. The water should not be leaking into the cylinders it only seeps up the stud.
from Bill French
I'm sure I read one of Tony M's replies in an old magazine which suggested trying a copper washer as a fix??
Worth a try?
Peter is right, you will need to refix the leaking stud as he suggests. These studs go through the water passages and can leak if the threads are loose and/or corroded.
Why did you fit the aluminium head? There is no benefit to be gained from the change unless the engine is modified in other ways as well.
Austin 10/4 fitted with aluminium heads were the Sports model – Ripley – and from late 1938 the Cambridge. Other changes made to these engines included:-
• High lift camshaft
• Larger inlet valves
• Downdraft carbs with different jets
Together these raised the claimed bhp from 21 to 30.
The late 1938-39 head is not compatible with the 1932-early38 block. The water passages on the later engines are oval and on the earlier ones round so that they do not align.
The aluminium heads are notorious for warping when overheated – described by one user as curling like a BR sandwich – and need to be re-skimmed before refitting whenever the head gasket blows. Probably a reason why the post-war Ten reverted back to an iron head.
Sorry to say so, but the only way to sort your problem is to drain the coolant, remove the head and carefully remove the gasket. Then you have to remove the offending stud, preferably replacing it with a new stud, using a proprietary thread sealer like Loctite.
You will then have to repeat the procedure of refitting the gasket and head, carefully tightening the head nuts in sequence. Refill with coolant and warm up the engine and again go over the head nuts in the same sequence. After about 25 miles re-tighten the nuts and again after another 50 miles go over them again.
With the aluminium heads you must use an Ethylene Glycol (Blue) anti freeze, as the corrosion inhibitors are necessary to avoid rapid deterioration of the aluminium head and inlet branch.
Join the club for advice, assistance and spares.
Peter C. 
I have just replaced the head on my 1935 ten with an aluminum head from a later model and it is seeping coolant from the stud between cylinder 3 and 4. Is this just because the head gasket has not settled in. I have yet to take it an a decent run and re-tighten it.
Any ideas, fixes ? appreciated