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#1 2014-12-12 20:33:57

rod dyer
Guest

1936 light 12/6

Hi i am rebuilding a 1700 light 12/6 engine for a friend and hope someone can help me with the oil clearances for the mains and big ends,also the torque settings for the cylinder head,mains and big ends.
any of the above will be much appreciated,thanks Rod

#2 2014-12-15 20:42:12

6350_William_French
Members
From: North Shields, Tyne and Wear
Registered: 2013-01-04
Posts: 390

Re: 1936 light 12/6

Hi Rod

The torque setting for the cylinder head is normally quoted as 32 ft lbs.  But remember to slacken off and retighten after running the car for about 100 miles.
I have not come across a torque setting for main or big end bearings.  But particularly on the big end bearings do not overtighten and streach the bolts or they will eventually snap.
Use new big end bolts and cylinder head studs! 

from Bill


You buy a car,  But you invest in an Austin

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#3 2014-12-17 09:05:10

rod
Guest

Re: 1936 light 12/6

Thanks Bill

#4 2014-12-19 23:37:23

6350_William_French
Members
From: North Shields, Tyne and Wear
Registered: 2013-01-04
Posts: 390

Re: 1936 light 12/6

Hi Rod

As a rough guide the oil clearance is often quoted as 1 thou clearance for ever inch diameter of the shaft.  So for a 12/6 you are looking at 1 to 2 thou clearance.

from  Bill


You buy a car,  But you invest in an Austin

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#5 2014-12-27 00:33:44

Anthony Mealing
Guest

Re: 1936 light 12/6

Torque settings, we (ATDC & Austin works) do not recommend the use of a torque wrench on these engines. The head studs have a fine thread and screw into the water jacket. They have a habit of rusting & pulling out of the block, so setting what you think is the correct load is often not safe. Also socket will apply too much leverage and even though you think the load is set, the angle of the extension will alter that. The Austin factory recommendation was an 8" ring spanner, working in the recommended sequence, and every three nuts return to the beginning re-doing each in turn. Always bring up the nut and "feel" the load, then slack off one flat and re-do up. The same with the big end bolts and always use new ones here as the old ones stretch. Do not forget to use new small end bolts. The mains and the big-end bearings should, on cast metal bearings be made to fit the crank pin. The test  for fit, do up the big end tight, hold the rod at right angels to the rotation of the crank and let go, the rod should drop to vertical and no more. If more too loose if it does not drop too tight. Always keep assembled. Crank float 2"th is the max on an old engine! On a cast bearing engine the float is controlled by the main bearing shoulders. With  the later thin-wall shells the settings are preset by the bearing over size and the shoulder inserts.
Tony Mealing Technical Writer ATDC 01494 533675

#6 2014-12-27 15:55:42

rod dyer
Guest

Re: 1936 light 12/6

Thanks Tony,it is certainly an interesting way of checking the clearance and assembling an engine.but here goes

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