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Topic review (newest first)

Gary Cullen
2019-09-13 22:54:45

An added comment on the outcome of my adventures with the petrol tank!.
The whole exercise was to check out the fuel sender as the gauge was not working.
Well, after refitting the tank with its new earthing the gauge still only showed empty. Damn.
Checking the resistance of the sender wire at the dash end showed 49 Ohms ( being empty resistance ) both with fuel and without, so out with then tank again. removed the sender and setup on the bench with the gauge and manually moving the float arm the gauge works. Then I noticed a petrol smell and closer examination of the float revealed that it was full of fuel!. this was obviously the problem all along. drilled a 1.5mm hole in one end, drained out the fuel, soldered up the hole and some other doggey looking areas on the float. Tested in a bucket of water , no bubbles after 10 minutes so refitted to tank, refitted tank ( I am an expert in doing this now ), put about 10 litres of fuel in and presto, I have a working gauge.
Happy as.


Gary Cullen
2019-09-05 01:52:44

Thanks Ted,

yes I have since been advised by our local Var Chairman that that is the way I should have done it.  However I couldn't see a conveniently close chassis mounting point and I didn't want to drill any new holes.
When I took the tank out there was no connection to the sender mounting machine screws.
Anyway, time will tell if the star washer earth holds but I suspect the fuel line provides a good earth.

Was I correct in assuming the thick mounting washers are for vibration isolation for the tank?


2019-09-04 07:41:20

You normally connect the earth to one of the bolts holding the sender to the tank gives a good earth even though you have a gasket underneath the sender unit,it earths through the threads connecting to the tank..Ted

Gary Cullen
2019-09-04 01:24:48

Spelling correction:
Start Washer should read Star Washer.

Gary Cullen
2019-09-04 01:22:55

Advising that I have refurbished the tank and refitted to car.
Refurbishing was to de-scale and de-rust then clean, dry and apply a tank sealer. I used Gold Standard Sealer.
De-scaling/de-rusting was with nuts and bolts and a product called Jenolite and a lot of shaking. Not a lot came out so the tank is in pretty good internal condition.
Also cleaned up the fuel gauge sender and checking it all operated on the test bench.
Checked the tank for a proper earth after installing...all good.
One thing, when I removed the tank there were some dilapidated/perished and quite thick soft washers on the mounting lugs. I assume these are for vibration isolation. I have replaced with some rubberised fabric ones, much thinner.
The only chassis earth connection I can see is via the petrol pickup pipe connector. Not sure I trust this so I widened one of the new fabric washers holes and fitted a start washer.
Thanks for Ivan's advise to remove the tank.

2019-08-31 09:37:23

Glad to be of help, hope it works, let us know how you get on. Syd

gary Cullen
2019-08-31 05:55:41

Success, tank is out and being cleaned and repaired, Sender unit cleaned and tested. ( Main reason to remove the tank )

i discovered that once the car was supported with stands on the chassis just forward of the rear springs front mounts, the rear wheels diff and springs hang down and the tank comes out reasonably easy. I found that lowering the filler pipe side first while moving the tank toward the on side of the car ( drivers side ) the tank drops down, filler side first and then easily is removed.

Many thanks Syd.


Gary Cullen
2019-08-30 23:37:51

Thanks Syd,

I have done exactly that, jacked up by the diff.... Duh!!
Will do it by the chassis member and have another go.
Many thanks for your advice.


2019-08-30 12:51:28

Hi Gary, You need to have the car jacked up by the rear chassis member to allow the rear axle to drop down to extend the springs to their lowest point, if you get my point. Put the axle stands under the chassis member not the axle.

With a lot of jiggling it should then come out but they are always very tight.

If you put it on axle stands or jack it via the diff you will never get it out.  Syd

Gary Cullen
2019-08-30 05:54:33

Hi everyone.
Would anyone be able to advise how to remove the fuel tank from 1933 Austin 10/4.  A recent purchase for me.
After undoing the u-bolts, removing the small escutcheon panel around the filler pipe  and disconnecting the pickup pipe and fuel gauge the tank partly drops but no matter which orientation I try the mounting lugs impede on the rear springs. At this stage it looks to me like I have to take one of the rear springs off to get it out... surely not!!?
I am a member of the NZ VAR.

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