Austin Ten Drivers Club

David,
Peter's comments are right. It would be very expensive to post a starter motor. Very rarely in my experience do they need more than new brushes, or a better bendix, or file the commutator or a replacement solenoid.
Cheers,
Phil

Hi J (do not know your name) As Peter says the SYN gearbox is likely to be the original with no synchro on 2nd. The 2SYN gearbox is later than your car and the 2 shows synchro on 2nd gear. (Your ebay advert says the opposite?) I would suggest the original (SYN) box was probably changed because 1st a...

Interesting Bob, It does not look right and appears to me to be a Special - not an original Austin model. Has a post 1936 chassis (must be over G90000), axles, wheels, brakes, steering, shockers, a non-original body with non-Austin rad surround, dash, windscreen, wings, bumpers, hood etc with numero...

Hi Richard, I would loosen the successful side chassis bolt and the front mounting where it is bolted on the engine and the chassis with a jack under rear of the engine. This normally gives enough free play to get the last side mounting bolt in OK. Juggle the engine till you feel no lip when you sli...

I agree with Peter. The only times I have used a different one is because someone has stripped a thread in the base - easily done if tightened as much as the other ones and if the thread is already worn. Now I tend to helicoil or drill out and tap the next size up bsf thread and am very careful with...

My Cabriolet is the last photo. (Very non-original as the car had no rear chassis member, boot lid, floor, hood hinges or hood when purchased.) I fitted a tow ball, a greatly modified Lichfield trunk lid and trailer hinges giving me a 5ft flat floor inside if needed. As Peter says, the original cabr...

I agree to a point, Peter. Newnes' article on redoing the gearbox and clutch says oil on the linings causes snatching and jerking. My experience is that oil on the linings tends to result in a slipping clutch when it gets hot - nothing more. (In redoing 17 engines I have never found a clutch lining ...

I agree with Gary, I just stone off any deep depression in the adjusting screw on rebuilding an engine from scratch. I have seen no wear after the engine has done a further reasonable mileage. Wear occurs after perhaps 100,000 miles? Perhaps I am not yet convinced that the originals were case harden...

Hi Gary, Should be no problem but you probably have got to remove the adjusting screw first. The critical distance after insertion is from the bottom of the guide to the top of the tappet bush. (If you drive the guide too far you will not be able to insert the tappet at some later date without remov...

Hi Gary, For the early engines I have worked on about a 1/16" min seat for inlet valves (about 60 thou) and about 3/32" for the exhaust seats. I open the ports to reflect this size (just over1.1" inlet bore, 1" exhaust) which improves the engine breathing and has not given me any problems - last eng...