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Grille badge

Posted: Tue Aug 22, 2023 12:39 pm
by BrianEvans
Hi there ,does anyone have an Austin grille badge for a 1937 Austin 10 Cambridge that they would like to sell ? Thank you

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 8:03 pm
by BrianEvans
Got one sorted now through the Club spares dept. 8-)

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 8:51 pm
by peter_winney
That's good. Maybe I should get one!

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2023 2:14 pm
by BrianEvans
Hi Peter,they are not cheap though at £40.00 😉
Brian & Jo

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2023 4:00 pm
by peter_winney
Well they are not made in china :D

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2023 4:54 pm
by BrianEvans
I’ve just found out it’s the wrong size ,they are saying it’s 5”long and the one off the grille is just over 6.5” long 🙄

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2023 12:03 pm
by peter_winney
The 5" badge with holes at the ends is for the chrome rad cars. The Austin script badge on the cowled rads including the Cambridge is longer (6" the broken one I have) and does not have holes right thru the ends but is fastened from behind.

Austin script badge - front view
script-badge-front.jpg
script-badge-front.jpg (184.74 KiB) Viewed 13417 times

Austin script badge fastening
script-badge-fastening.jpg
script-badge-fastening.jpg (203.07 KiB) Viewed 13417 times

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2023 9:23 pm
by BrianEvans
Ah yes that’s exactly the same as ours and ours has broke in exactly the same place.😳

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2023 3:47 pm
by peter_winney
BrianEvans wrote:
Mon Aug 28, 2023 9:23 pm
Ah yes that’s exactly the same as ours and ours has broke in exactly the same place.😳
I have plans to glue it with a strip behind in support but the difficulty will be fitting it to the car without removing the radiator cowling & grill

Re: Grille badge

Posted: Tue Aug 29, 2023 4:41 pm
by peter_christie
Peter,

you can solder them with modern low temperature solder, but the metal, Mazak, zinc based alloy must be clinically clean. I have also glued it successfully using Bondic with U/V cure, but I wouldn't bet on how long it will last 'coz the U/V can't see through the metal.
(it's OK on plastic components). Gluing the whole thing on to a piece of tinplate and cutting it out with a metal-cutting fretsaw would work.
On the New Ascot, I could reach the screws from below - with difficulty!

Peter C. [6515] (still in the land of the living, but Austinless)