1933 ten, valve grind

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Rod
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2019 9:44 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by Rod » Thu Oct 08, 2020 5:11 am

The traditional copper/‘asbestos’ head gasket dressing was literally a ‘ smear both sides with grease’, but I think this was done with the idea of preserving the gasket for future use at the next valve grind. Another diy dressing I’ve seen is silver paint. VHT and possibly CRC make/made a spray on sealer which I’ve used (not on A10s but on other engines), unfortunately it can make subsequent head removal (especially the ones which use studs and not bolts because you can’t twist the head with the studs in) more difficult than you’d think... Your choice, personally if both faces are in good order and you’re using a good quality gasket,decent fastenings and you are confident that you can tighten them in a ‘workmanlike fashion’ then I would fit it dry 🙂

6350_William_French
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:27 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by 6350_William_French » Thu Oct 08, 2020 6:55 pm

The normal recommendation is a light smearing of grease to settle the gasket evenly. Tighten the head nuts down in the correct sequence and retighten after about 50 miles.
from Bill French

bob_allison
Posts: 240
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:20 pm

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by bob_allison » Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:47 pm

I fit most joints with a smear of copper grease . This is an excellent anti stick , and enables joints to be used repeatedly . As for using on head gaskets , my last gasket stuck not at all and the joint parted cleanly . I slacked off the head nuts a turn and then used the starter to break the joint . All the water and steam joints on my traction engine are put up with Copaslip , and it has saved me a lot of money on spoiled gaskets , jointing material is not cheap .

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stephen_voller
Posts: 175
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 3:49 pm
Location: Polegate.

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by stephen_voller » Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:26 pm

Just greased is normal.
A sealant is only used by those trying to counteract the effects of deformity in the surface of say the cylinder head because they are looking to avoid the correct solution which is machining.

Steve V.

GaryCullen
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:34 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by GaryCullen » Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:32 pm

Thanks for all advice and guidance .
I have some copper grease so I will use a light smearing of that.
Cheers
Gary
VAR NZ

GaryCullen
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:34 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by GaryCullen » Sun Nov 08, 2020 10:05 pm

Hi All,
Progress so far:
On closely inspecting the valve seats in the block and contact area on the valves it is obvious that firstly the exhaust seats are pitted with each exhaust valve also pitted. The valve guides show little wear and the valve stems are still as new. tested by rocking the valve in the guide.
It is also obvious that the valves them selves have been previously ground maybe more than once. The contact area is quite wide.
There probably is enough "meat" left at the extreme diameter edge of each Ex valve to take another machine grind and a hand lap but I am about to order a new set anyway, from our VAR.
The contact area on the seats in the Block is not as wide as what is on the valve but quite wide and I have been advised by an old time motor engineer who worked on Austins and Morris's in the 1960's when there was still a few about in NZ used as daily transport. ( buying new cars in NZ then was very difficult as you had to have overseas funds )
His advice is to grind the Ex seats in 3 x grinding steps of different angles: is to use a seat grinding tool of say 30 degree's angle first at the bottom of each Ex seat, and then 70 degree's at the top. This has the effect of reducing the centre contact area to something more sensible.
Lastly to lightly grind the centre to the required 45 degrees.
The new valves can then be hand lapped to the new cut seats.
There is plenty of cast block metal left around the Ex Valve seats.

All the inlet valves and seats are in good shape and a hand lap is all that is required there.

My question is how wide should the Ex Valve contact area, valve and seat be?

And lastly, I have a choice to buy Pinned Type Ex Valves or collet type.
In my engine at the moment all the inlet valves are collet and Ex valves are pinned.
I think I will need new Collet Spring caps if I change but do I need different springs?

Kind Regards
Gary Cullen

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peter_winney
Posts: 668
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Location: BATH

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by peter_winney » Mon Nov 09, 2020 5:23 pm

GaryCullen wrote:
Sun Nov 08, 2020 10:05 pm

And lastly, I have a choice to buy Pinned Type Ex Valves or collet type.
In my engine at the moment all the inlet valves are collet and Ex valves are pinned.
I think I will need new Collet Spring caps if I change but do I need different springs?

Kind Regards
Gary Cullen
Yes the spring caps are different for pin or collet valves but the valve springs are the same. You might want new springs anyway as they lose their tension eventually.
Member since July 1972

ted_prest
Posts: 182
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 3:33 pm
Location: north york,s

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by ted_prest » Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:29 pm

Just a smattering of grease,dont use sealant.Ted

GaryCullen
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:34 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by GaryCullen » Tue Nov 10, 2020 7:22 pm

Thanks for the advice All.

Does any one know what the measurement is for the contact are Valve to Valve seat is?
I am thinking it should be about 40 to 50 Thou going from what I have discovered watching you tube video's of guys doing valve jobs on side valve's.
Unfortunately all the engines they are working on a fat head Ford V8's!!

Gary
Antipodes VAR

GaryCullen
Posts: 28
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 1:34 am

Re: 1933 ten, valve grind

Post by GaryCullen » Tue Nov 10, 2020 9:57 pm

sorry, last post should read " engines they are working on are flat head Ford V8's!!

Gary

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