1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

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KWEJSU
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:54 pm

1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by KWEJSU » Tue Nov 24, 2020 1:08 pm

Can somebody please help me with my clutch. when i try to reverse the car goes jerking and its very difficult to reverse. Any help is appreciated thank you all

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peter_winney
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Location: BATH

Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by peter_winney » Tue Nov 24, 2020 2:54 pm

Jerking and judder likely to be worn clutch linings or oil on the linings. More noticeable on reverse and 1st gears.
Member since July 1972

phil_taylor
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Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2019 10:49 am
Location: Hampton Hill, Middlesex

Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by phil_taylor » Tue Nov 24, 2020 4:08 pm

I agree to a point, Peter.
Newnes' article on redoing the gearbox and clutch says oil on the linings causes snatching and jerking. My experience is that oil on the linings tends to result in a slipping clutch when it gets hot - nothing more. (In redoing 17 engines I have never found a clutch lining down to the rivets - a few were choked with charcoal from slipping! All were oily. So I do not think it is likely to be oil or worn linings.)
My suggestion is that it is more likely that the pressure plate is not meeting the driven plate evenly perhaps due to toggle wear so one section of the lining is biting before the whole lot, plus if the gearbox and axle are fairly slack with backlash and worn bearings? Austin 10 clutches should never be slipped. Always let in the clutch as gently as poss at as near to tickover as possible - before the amazing acceleration. Early clutches were very 'harsh'.
Alternatively start off in 2nd - again slipping the clutch to a minimum. It is also suggested that the driven plate may be sticking on the splines - unlikely with the film of oil inside all reasonable mileage clutch housings. The splines might be worn? Can't think of anything else.
I am here to be corrected as it is only my personal opinion and experience.

peter_christie
Posts: 150
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Location: Newton Mearns, Glasgow

Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by peter_christie » Tue Nov 24, 2020 5:02 pm

Hi,
While I bow to Phil's considerably greater experience with Tens than mine - I've never even driven a thirties Ten although I have driven a 1946 GS1 and a 'Tilly' - this seems to be an Austin thing. I can make it happen on my '36 Twelve and in my youth we often noticed this behaviour (mostly in reverse, seldom in first) on BS1 Sixteens and A40 vans. So the unlined driven plate, oily or dry can't be the sole cause of this phenomenon. I've heard garages blame it on "polished plate", no doubt because it's work for the workshop, but I think backlash in the engine/gearbox mountings may be the ultimate cause.
So KWEJSU you aren't the first, by a long way.
Peter C. [6515]

ted_prest
Posts: 182
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2019 3:33 pm
Location: north york,s

Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by ted_prest » Tue Nov 24, 2020 6:30 pm

I agree with Phil on his comments,my Sherborne does it sometimes only in reverse,so if it was oil etc then why doesnt it do it all the time???i have had many Austins over the past 55 years or so pretty much all the same but they were never a problem,never slipped,never had to replace one Ted

bob_allison
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Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:20 pm

Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by bob_allison » Wed Nov 25, 2020 4:02 pm

Sounds like engine mounts , possibly interacting with pedal linkage .

Old Bertie
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Re: 1933 austin 10/4 CLIFTON

Post by Old Bertie » Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:22 pm

First problem which is easy to resolve is the driving technique. You cannot "ride" the clutch fitted to Austin cars during this period in the same way that you can "ride" the clutch of a modern car. These cork faced clutches are either in or out there is no half way house so as a first action consider your driving technique.
Second problem and the worst case scenario: With a car of this age its probable a combination of wear and tear. The rear axle gearing and diff may be very worn as may the toggle casting which moves the clutch plate or even the holes in the aluminium casting which mounts the toggle leaver may have worn oval or be very sloppy (apologies for the non technical language). Test by trying to reverse up a slight gradient with low engine revs with the car fully loaded.
Third problem and the most likely is oil on the clutch plate. Without a seal on the end of the crankshaft oil is thrown about by a metal disk called an oil thrower and drops to the base of the clutch housing (sometimes) where it drips out of a little vent protected with a pressed steel housing. It is very easy to get this design to allow excess oil onto the clutch plate. For example is you overfill the sump oil by as little as 300mm. Check by removing the timing plate on top of the clutch housing and take a look. Make sure the engine is OFF. You may not see anything just rummage around with a cotton bud but if you are old fashioned like me poke your finger.

You will be told that you can clean the clutch plate by just pouring in a small amount of petrol or industrial alcohol and just allowing it to evaporate overnight - However, this has only been a temporary respite when I have tried it.

If you are left with the only solution as replacing the clutch plate facing when I did this just before lockdown in February 2020 instead of riveting the new face in place I sent the plate off to a specialist who glues them in place as they tend to do with modern brake drum linings. Much better result in my view and future proofed for the next owner in due time.

If you are going to replace the clutch yourself get someone who has done it before to help you. Mine was a learning process with lots of anxiety and sleepless nights and all in all my car was off the road for six months. In hindsight if the car is not juddering or slipping the clutch in forward gear with two people on board and you are just using it for a trip to the pub on a Sunday morning I would leave it alone until it finally goes

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