Clutch adjustment

[osscobbler@sky.com]

Anyone can help me here I’ve tried to adjust the clutch on my Austin ten 1935 colwyn slackened the bolt and tried to take up the slack but made it worse doesn’t seam to work at all now , what’s the correct procedure can’t find anything on line or the Austin ten hand book ,any help advice appreciated.thanks Colin

[Rod]

When you say "it doesn't seem to work at all now" do you mean it won't declutch as in the pedal depresses but the clutch wont release? If this is the case I would suspect the clutch plate is sticking on one or both of the lined plates (I think this model has the plain center plate clutch?) or if the later model lined center plate set up sticking to the flywheel face. Maybe some A10 aficionados will chime in with some local knowledge?
So far as the adjustment procedure goes, I can't post a picture as I'm not an ATDC member so I have to quote verbatim from T B D Service's "Austin Cars" p121:
"---slacken the nut on the locking bolt *and the nut* on the clutch-operating shaft. Then, to take up wear, press the pedal slightly so that the locking-nut bolt moves forward approximately 1/8 in. in the elongated hole in the adjusting lever. Retighten the nuts with the pedal in a slightly depressed position
A slightly different form of arrangement, used on some cars, does without the nut on the clutch-operating shaft. The adjustment is obtained by slackening the locking bolt and depressing the pedal one or two notches on the small quadrant attached to the clutch-operating shaft; the locking bolt is then tightened up."
If you are doing either of these procedures and still have no joy, I suspect you could have an issue with the clutch itself (or the release mechanism inside the bell housing).

[bob_allison]

If you are very new to these things , you may not realise that the clutch pedal has to have clearance . That is to say that there should be at least a half inch or more of free play under the pedal ( allowing for the light weight pedal return spring , which just takes the weight of the pedal and prevents this resting on the withdrawal mechanism ) If you take up all the free play , then the pedal will be permanently resting on the withdrawal mechanism , and trying all the time to lift the clutch . This will start your clutch slipping and rob you of drive , besides burning out your clutch . You should be able to rattle your clutch pedal up and down by at least half an inch , preferably more , because as things wear , the clearance will DEcrease .
Sorry if I am pointing out the obvious , but we all have to start somewhere .
If you are depressing your clutch pedal , and feel that you are lifting the main weight of the clutch springs , but the clutch is still not freeing , then the plates could be rusted together from lack of use .
If there is correct slack in the mechanism , but you have no drive when in geart theny our clutch is either oiley or worn out , and will need dismantling to repair .
There are one or two coarse tests or remedies , which I will not suggest .

[peter_winney]

Colin
The Pitman's Book of the Austin Ten by Staton Abbey says:-

The adjustment should be such as to allow at least 3/8 in. free movement of the clutch pedal

It goes on say:-

To adjust the pedal movement, first put a tommy bar into the hole in the clutch operating shaft to hold it in postion (see Fig.14) Then slightly slacken the clamping screw at the bottom of the clutch pedal lever and depress the pedal sufficiently to give the necessary free movement. Securely tighten the clamping screw and check the adjustment.

A10-clutc-adjust.jpg (60.71 KiB) Viewed 8364 times

In my experience difficulties that may arise include:

• No hole in the shaft for the tommy bar so need to hold it with a Mole Wrench
• Move the pedal the wrong way so end up without any free pedal movement (instruction says "depress" but you need to increase the travel not reduce it)
• Move the pedal too much so clutch does not disengage fully
• Clamp does not tighten sufficiently to grip - may need slot cleaning out and or threads repairing
• Brake and clutch pedals reversed so neither can be adjusted correctly (clutch pedal has shorter stem fitting into lever)

Peter W

[Old Bertie]

I have exactly the opposite problem. The clutch pedal free movement is too much before the clutch engages. I think the clutch should bite before the pedal hits the floor. I have had the clutch rebuilt by a classic car mechanic but now it has far too much movement. I am told that as the clutch wears the movement will decrease and that makes sense but how long will that take I ask myself? I think when the tommy bar is inserted to hold the clutch position the lever should be moved back (in the direction of the rear of the car) and the bolt re tightened. This will make the pedal sit too high but then the pedal securing bolt should be loosened so the pedal lines up with the brake pedal. We have heard that measurement of free travel when depressing the clutch but how far from the floor should the pedal be when the clutch is fully engaged? Confused - yes. The problem is that my left leg has movement problems following a stroke and I find it very difficult to press the pedal to the floor. The clutch on these cars is very sharp at its best and although I must now consider myself a disabled driver I don't want to give up my little Austin.

[peter_winney]

.... but then the pedal securing bolt should be loosened so the pedal lines up with the brake pedal.

That is not possible because the shaft on the pedal has a cut out where the clamp pin goes thru' The clutch pedal on the Ten is nearer to the floor and has less travel than the brake pedal.