1935 Lichfield no drive?
Re: 1935 Lichfield no drive?
No worries Peter, Its a great illustration of lots of time and effort being wasted for no satisfactory result...
Re: 1935 Lichfield no drive?
Hi Rod, Peter,
I checked the Lichfield today. The rear offside hub was all loose, I removed it and cleaned it up and it looked okay, albeit the half shaft was a little scored and the key was missing but the key slot was intact. I reassembled it as tight as I could but it had a washer in front of the castleated nut preventing it from going on far enough to allow a split pin. I couldn’t see a washer on the diagrams so left it off and it went on okay.
I checked the other rear wheel and the hub was on tight with no movement so I left it. One of the brake drum screws was missing.
Both the front wheels were tight with no movement but again one the brake drum screws was missing.
I lifted the bonnet to turn the battery isolater on and there on the shelf next to the battery was 2 hub keys and 2 brake drum screws, so I am assuming the rear near side hub is also missing it’s key.
The car started and moved forward and back. As soon as I can get it home I will take both the rear hubs apart and reassemble.
Thanks for your help and advice it’s really appreciated. As soon as I start working on the car I am sure I’ll have lots more questions.
Thanks
Colin
I checked the Lichfield today. The rear offside hub was all loose, I removed it and cleaned it up and it looked okay, albeit the half shaft was a little scored and the key was missing but the key slot was intact. I reassembled it as tight as I could but it had a washer in front of the castleated nut preventing it from going on far enough to allow a split pin. I couldn’t see a washer on the diagrams so left it off and it went on okay.
I checked the other rear wheel and the hub was on tight with no movement so I left it. One of the brake drum screws was missing.
Both the front wheels were tight with no movement but again one the brake drum screws was missing.
I lifted the bonnet to turn the battery isolater on and there on the shelf next to the battery was 2 hub keys and 2 brake drum screws, so I am assuming the rear near side hub is also missing it’s key.
The car started and moved forward and back. As soon as I can get it home I will take both the rear hubs apart and reassemble.
Thanks for your help and advice it’s really appreciated. As soon as I start working on the car I am sure I’ll have lots more questions.
Thanks
Colin
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peter_winney
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Re: 1935 Lichfield no drive?
Colin
Thanks for update. Glad you found the missing bits lying on the shelf next to the battery.
Peter
Thanks for update. Glad you found the missing bits lying on the shelf next to the battery.
Peter
Member since July 1972
I ache Therefore I am
I ache Therefore I am
Re: 1935 Lichfield no drive?
Good Work Colin!
I don't think there is supposed to be a washer under the hub nut (contrary to normal practice), but if you find that the slots in the hub nut don't line up with the holes in the halfshaft when you finally put it together, either axially or radially, then is when you swap the nuts from side to side or face a little off (taking care to keep the face of the nut square to the threaded bore) to line them up. If you're planning on dressing up the taper fits have a look on YouTube, there's a bit on there on lapping powerboat propellers onto shafts- different application but the same principle. The important thing is not to overdo the lapping to the extent you allow the axle taper to protrude beyond the hub causing the axle nut to bottom against the axle.
I don't think there is supposed to be a washer under the hub nut (contrary to normal practice), but if you find that the slots in the hub nut don't line up with the holes in the halfshaft when you finally put it together, either axially or radially, then is when you swap the nuts from side to side or face a little off (taking care to keep the face of the nut square to the threaded bore) to line them up. If you're planning on dressing up the taper fits have a look on YouTube, there's a bit on there on lapping powerboat propellers onto shafts- different application but the same principle. The important thing is not to overdo the lapping to the extent you allow the axle taper to protrude beyond the hub causing the axle nut to bottom against the axle.