Hi guys
I am trying to wire in my headlights and the wiring diagram doesn’t seem to work I have headlights but no dip any help would be great
Cheers Pete
Dip switch wiring
Re: Dip switch wiring
Hello Peter,
you haven't given us a lot of information, have you checked for battery voltage present at the globe holder dip filament connection?
To put in my 10 cents worth I will have to assume that you have a post-war [1952->] set up and standard wiring colours [i.e. dual filament headlamp globes, not dip-and -switch, and no added relays, no added in line connectors etc], some generic things to consider are:
1. Electrically operational dip switch ? rare but I have seen them click quite nicely but the contacts inside are shot?
2. Dip switch wired correctly, power from junction box [blue] to the center terminal of the three on the switch. Dip beam [blue/red] to either of the other two terminals, Main beam [blue/white] to the remaining terminal.
3. Correct globes, with particular attention to the base type, and correctly fitted into the corresponding holders. And functional globes too- I've seen a few get caught out with open circuit filaments on both globes
. And filaments correctly connected, i.e. both dips connected together, and both mains connected together. The PO of my car had the dip on one side connected to main on the other...
4. Good earths on both globe holders, if one holder is open to earth [on any car with dual filament globes] it is possible to get a sneak feed through the two filaments in that globe to the opposite side through the common wiring to the dip switch terminals. Both globes are effectively in series and lack of dip/main switch is one of the symptoms [also the lights will only be ~1/2 brightness]
All of the above you can check electrically with clip leads/test light if you don't have access to a multimeter. One hint, if you have got a multimeter run voltage drop tests instead of resistance measurements.
If you do happen to be using relays or dip-and-switch we will need more info
Hope this helps and apologies if I'm giving egg sucking lessons...
you haven't given us a lot of information, have you checked for battery voltage present at the globe holder dip filament connection?
To put in my 10 cents worth I will have to assume that you have a post-war [1952->] set up and standard wiring colours [i.e. dual filament headlamp globes, not dip-and -switch, and no added relays, no added in line connectors etc], some generic things to consider are:
1. Electrically operational dip switch ? rare but I have seen them click quite nicely but the contacts inside are shot?
2. Dip switch wired correctly, power from junction box [blue] to the center terminal of the three on the switch. Dip beam [blue/red] to either of the other two terminals, Main beam [blue/white] to the remaining terminal.
3. Correct globes, with particular attention to the base type, and correctly fitted into the corresponding holders. And functional globes too- I've seen a few get caught out with open circuit filaments on both globes
. And filaments correctly connected, i.e. both dips connected together, and both mains connected together. The PO of my car had the dip on one side connected to main on the other...4. Good earths on both globe holders, if one holder is open to earth [on any car with dual filament globes] it is possible to get a sneak feed through the two filaments in that globe to the opposite side through the common wiring to the dip switch terminals. Both globes are effectively in series and lack of dip/main switch is one of the symptoms [also the lights will only be ~1/2 brightness]
All of the above you can check electrically with clip leads/test light if you don't have access to a multimeter. One hint, if you have got a multimeter run voltage drop tests instead of resistance measurements.
If you do happen to be using relays or dip-and-switch we will need more info
Hope this helps and apologies if I'm giving egg sucking lessons...