Boot lid lock.

[Roy@MSU907]

Dear Members
I am a new member of the Club. I have recently acquired a 1938 Austin 18 Windsor, reg MSU 907 that is in quite good condition. As with all old vehicles there are always little jobs with which to fettle/tinker.
One of the first is to get the boot lock to function properly and lock.
I have trawled through the Club’s forum archive and the internet for information on locks etc. and can find nothing on boot lid handles and locks. So here goes.
The barrel number is the same as the driver’s door key and turns the 180 degrees as thought it would lock. The T handle turns both clockwise and anti-clockwise to operate the mortice lock inside on the boot lid. There appears that there is no mechanism between the back of the key barrel and the mortice lock to stop it turning and hence lock.
Problem, I can remove the two chromed screws from the T handle on the outside of the handle. I can remove the four screws that hold the mortice part into the cavity between the outer and inner skin of the boot lid. I can not find any peg/bar/screw that releases the T handle/key barrel from the mortice mechanism and therefore can not remove any of the lock from the boot lid to repair/replace it.
Does anybody know how to do this? What am I missing?
I can post pictures if required.
Regards
Roy

[peter_winney]

When my boot lock was broken, by an over-enthusiastic twist by a mate, I bought a mini boot handle and fitted that. In appearance it is quite close and has a modern lock. But my Cambridge does not have original door handles either.

[Rod]

Hi Roy, if your Windsor latch is the same arrangement as my contemporary Goodwood, the tee handle has a length of square bar on the end which fits into a matching square socket on the latch mechanism in the boot lid. It is a friction fit in the socket and often is seized in by corrosion. The only thing which positively retains the assembly is the bezel on the outside in which the tee handle is secured by a friction washer and a ‘c’ clip, so once you have the two screws out it should pull out (at least that’s the intention). You may have to get as much penetrating fluid of your choice in there and apply some graduated force. Or if you feel lucky, transfer the centre line of the handle to the sheet metal inside the boot lid, drill a discreet hole and knock it out with a pin punch (the socket is a through hole). Once you have the handle out, you can remove the ‘c’ clip and slide the tee out of the bezel. The locking works by the key barrel rotation pushing a pin out of the tee section into a notch on the bezel. From memory the lock barrel and tumblers are pinned into the tee. Also from memory there is a die cast lug on the key barrel which cams the locking pin out- I have seen these snapped off.

[Roy@MSU907]

Thanks Rod
I've soaked the inside with penetrating oil. I’ve tried ‘driffing’ the latch mechanism from the front, down the side of the handle, no joy as yet. It appears that it doesn’t want to move.
I’m going to have to drill the hole in the boot inner skin and try a punch.
I’ll keep everybody posted. Wish me luck.
Roy

[Rod]

If you haven’t done so already try dribbling penetrant down the clearance between the lock tongue and the lock casing so it runs down straight onto the square bar and hopefully gravity takes where it needs to go? On my car there’s plenty of clearance there to shine a torch down and check your aim