Grille badge
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Grille badge
Hi there ,does anyone have an Austin grille badge for a 1937 Austin 10 Cambridge that they would like to sell ? Thank you
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Re: Grille badge
Got one sorted now through the Club spares dept.
- peter_winney
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Re: Grille badge
That's good. Maybe I should get one!
Member since July 1972
Never too old to learn something new
Never too old to learn something new
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Re: Grille badge
Hi Peter,they are not cheap though at £40.00
Brian & Jo
Brian & Jo
- peter_winney
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Re: Grille badge
Well they are not made in china
Member since July 1972
Never too old to learn something new
Never too old to learn something new
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Re: Grille badge
I’ve just found out it’s the wrong size ,they are saying it’s 5”long and the one off the grille is just over 6.5” long
- peter_winney
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Re: Grille badge
The 5" badge with holes at the ends is for the chrome rad cars. The Austin script badge on the cowled rads including the Cambridge is longer (6" the broken one I have) and does not have holes right thru the ends but is fastened from behind.
Austin script badge - front view
Austin script badge fastening
Austin script badge - front view
Austin script badge fastening
Member since July 1972
Never too old to learn something new
Never too old to learn something new
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Re: Grille badge
Ah yes that’s exactly the same as ours and ours has broke in exactly the same place.
- peter_winney
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Re: Grille badge
I have plans to glue it with a strip behind in support but the difficulty will be fitting it to the car without removing the radiator cowling & grillBrianEvans wrote: ↑Mon Aug 28, 2023 9:23 pmAh yes that’s exactly the same as ours and ours has broke in exactly the same place.
Member since July 1972
Never too old to learn something new
Never too old to learn something new
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Re: Grille badge
Peter,
you can solder them with modern low temperature solder, but the metal, Mazak, zinc based alloy must be clinically clean. I have also glued it successfully using Bondic with U/V cure, but I wouldn't bet on how long it will last 'coz the U/V can't see through the metal.
(it's OK on plastic components). Gluing the whole thing on to a piece of tinplate and cutting it out with a metal-cutting fretsaw would work.
On the New Ascot, I could reach the screws from below - with difficulty!
Peter C. [6515] (still in the land of the living, but Austinless)
you can solder them with modern low temperature solder, but the metal, Mazak, zinc based alloy must be clinically clean. I have also glued it successfully using Bondic with U/V cure, but I wouldn't bet on how long it will last 'coz the U/V can't see through the metal.
(it's OK on plastic components). Gluing the whole thing on to a piece of tinplate and cutting it out with a metal-cutting fretsaw would work.
On the New Ascot, I could reach the screws from below - with difficulty!
Peter C. [6515] (still in the land of the living, but Austinless)